Have you wanted to create a farmhouse but were cut off by the high cost of purchasing one of the neat "designer label" multi-tiered " vermicomposting" kits, promoted by garden centers and mail order companies? Well, let's cut through crap! – IT IS REALLY NOT HEMELY !!! -You can easily make your own DIY three box for a few dollars, and your worms will be as happy as little pigs in the yellow things, without a big bad wolf in sight. In addition, you do not have to be an expert craftsman to achieve this!
- Hardware stores, supermarkets and camping sites sell hard plastic storage containers of a general kind for a very reasonable price. These are usually conical so they can be nested to facilitate stacking on the dealer's shelves and comes with a " snap-fit" ce lid. For your worm use, you need three of these conical containers (but only one lid). For a simple home-grown farm, I would recommend going to 12 gallon (45 liter) containers. Typically they will be about 15 inches deep (400mm). You can go less if you want to.
- In the first storage container, drill a 3/8 inch (15 mm hole), centrally located in the side of the box, just above the bottom. Insert a inch (12mm) inexpensive plastic tube or water tap (with slices) into your hole and tighten fast with lock nuts – be sure to get a good seal test by filling the container with tap water. This container must be the lowest in your stack and keep the very nutritious " worm tea " percolate that begins to drip down from the composting containers above. Snake is a valuable liquid organic fertilizer that can be diluted and applied directly to your organic vegetables.
The two upper hills will actually keep the worms. They must be identified and manufactured as follows: –
- Drill a pattern of inch (6 mm) holes across the bottom of each container for drainage and allow drainage and upward migration of compostorms, these holes should be regularly distributed at approx. . 2 inch (50 mm) centers in both directions.
- For aeration, drill two holes in inches (6 mm) at two centimeters (50 mm) centers in a continuous band around each of the trays. This band of holes would be about four inches (100mm) below the top edge of the box.
- It is not important to drill holes in the lid that is closed close to the top container. as you will get enough air through the sides.
- You must first create the bottom (swamp) bin on blocks or blocks so that there is enough space to drain the liquid beneath it. Choose a shady place for the wormyard (in a shed or garage if you are exposed to frost).
- The second and third containers are "embedded" in each other and fell into the sump container. In order to maintain a working area for the worms and for compost accumulation, you need a few spacers or gaskets between six and eight inches between the two top trays and some smaller gaskets of approx. four inches in the bottom (swamp) hill. You can use wooden blocks or sealed boxes for packaging. The packages also prevent the conical worms from sticking together.
- To prevent "unpleasant mistakes" from squeezing between the containers, close ( caulk ) the small space with shadow or mosquito strips.
Now you're ready to go into production. Spacevents us from giving full detailed notes here for the fine points in operating the system, such as choice and feeding of your worms, pest eradication and maintenance of the worm, etc. – You can visit our website for this information. However, make sure that you cover the following items: –
- Put your worms in the top tray with a damp cloth (or even torn newspaper) and after a few days you will be ready to start feeding your kitchen crabs . Cover the food with more bedding to deter pests and keep the lid closed.
- Ensure that the orchard never gets dried by spraying water over bedding periodically if there is not already enough moisture from the food.
- When the top tray has been fully productive for a while, the worms will multiply and compost begins to accumulate from the worm cavities. When the amount of compost is meaningful, stop feeding into this box and replace the top two boxes by placing box 2 at the top of the stack with box No. 1 now in the middle. Set up this new top tray with clean bedding, a small piece of the old castings and immediately start feeding your kitchen crabs into it. The worms will of course migrate upwards towards the new food source, leaving the lower box with only a few stragglers and ready for harvesting your compost within approx. three weeks after exchange.
- All you have to do is continue repeating the process of replacing the top two slopes on a regular basis when you take out the compost when it accumulates and occasionally tap worm tea from time to time . Use both products in your garden and cultivate delicious organic vegetables and amazing roses. Sit back and enjoy fruit from your work – your worms do most of the work anyway!
To see a detailed diagram of this simple worm bridge, as described, and some illustrative images, visit our website at http://www.working-worms.com/